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Name: Ball Python
Scientific Name: Python regius
AKA: "Royal python"
General Information
Distribution
Central & Western Africa
Wild Status
Large populations exist but are being reduced due to excessive habitat destruction, skin trade and the pet trade. In some
collected areas the populations remain stable due to agricultural activities and the created artificial rat populations. In Ghana,
Africa the ball python trade is regulated by the government and attention is put into keeping a viable population of adults in the
wild to create the next generations for future collection. Gravid females are collected and then returned to the wild by
government officials; a percentage of the babies hatched are also being released back into the wild. Treating these animals as
a sustainable resource has possibly increased the local population range, and may help to secure the future of these animals
in the wild. In other countries, however, ball pythons are collected with absolute disregard for the "overall picture" and impact
on wild populations, and are sold as meat or living animals. Adults are now being exported in huge numbers to the Asian
markets where they are being used for their meat and blood, Recently there has been interest in butchering & canning the ball
pythons in Africa for export as a meat product for the Asian markets. This single activity could bring the demise of large
populations, as they can not sustain such losses without wiping out entire areas. Until the government takes notice Benin and
Togo are draining themselves dry of their ball python populations. .
Description
Ball pythons are robust serpents with a distinctive head & slender neck. Normal body coloration is black with yellow, gold, or
brown markings. Pattern may be "broken," banded or reduced in some specimens, and many exhibit varying degrees of
broken dorsal striping.
Wild-caught ball pythons are notorious for being difficult to acclimate: these are the animals that give balls their reputation for
being terrible feeders. Going with a captive born, well established ball python is a must for making your first ball python
experience a good one. These are somewhat shy snakes that fare much better in captivity when acquired from a reliable CB
source.
Size
Hatchlings approximately 10"+/-. Females average 3'- 5', males average 2' - 3' adult size. This is a species in which mature
females are typically distinctly larger than the males. A 5+ foot ball python is considered large, although lengths of 6+ feet have
been reported.
Lifespan
Ball pythons may live 40 years or more in captivity.
Color Mutations
Thus far, there have been more color mutations discovered & created in ball pythons than in any other boid species. These
include: T- Albino, T+ Albino, Lavender Albino, Albino Spider, Arctic, Axanthic, Burgundy Hypo, Bumble Bee Spider, Caramel
Glow, Cinnamon Pastel, Coffee, Classic Jungle, Clown, Coral Glow, Desert Ghost, Ghost Hypos, Hypermelanistic, Killer Bee
Spider, Lemon Pastel, Leucistic, Mojave, Melanistic, Patternless, Pearl, Piebald, Platinum, Snow, Spider, Striped (genetic),
Super Pastel, Woma Ball & many more!
Captive Maintenance Guidelines
Difficulty Level
Beginner. Easy, but keeper must have a general knowledge of snake husbandry. Captive bred, well started ball pythons make
an excellent first snake for the beginning herpetoculturist.
Enclosure
Enclosures can be as simple or elaborate as one is capable of caring for. Remember that the more "stuff" you put in a cage,
the more "stuff" you have to clean & disinfect on a regular basis. That said, there are many different enclosures that work
extremely well for ball pythons, including, but not limited to: plastic sweater boxes (i.e. Rubbermaid), melamine racks, Freedom
Breeder cages, and any of the commercially available plastic-type reptile cages, (i.e. those from Vision Herp & other similar
manufacturers). Glass aquariums & tanks are adequate; keep in mind that the screen tops on such enclosures can make it
very difficult to maintain humidity levels. Also refer to our Snake Caging care sheet for more information. Juvenile ball pythons
seem to do well in smaller enclosures that make them feel more secure; a small snake in a big cage can become
overwhelmed & stressed. Fortunately adult ball pythons do not require exceptionally large or elaborate enclosures. A 36" x 18"
x 12" enclosure will more than comfortably house an adult ball python. Remember that ALL enclosures must allow for a proper
thermal gradient that the snake can utilize, with a hot spot on one end and a cooler spot on the other.
Substrate
There are a few substrates that work well. Newspaper is the cheapest & easiest with regards to cleaning & disinfecting: out
with the old, in with the new. Cypress mulch is great for controlling humidity, but remember that too much humidity can be as
detrimental (if not more) as too little. Never use any substrate containing cedar, as this is deadly to reptiles!
Temperatures & Heating
Provide your ball python with a basking spot of 88-92 °F and an ambient (background) temperature of 78-80 °F. The ambient
temperature should not fall below 75 °F. It is vitally important to KNOW the temperatures at which you are keeping your
snake(s). DO NOT GUESS!! A great way to monitor temps is to use a digital indoor/outdoor thermometer with a probe. Stick the
thermometer to the inside of the cage on the cool end and place the probe on the warm end, and you'll have both sides covered
at once.
There are several ways to go about heating the enclosure: undercage heating pads, ceramic heat emitters, basking bulbs
(both regular daytime & red "night" bulbs) are just a few. With heat emitters & bulbs it is necessary to really keep an eye on the
humidity within the enclosure, especially if combined with a screen top, as both will dry the air quickly. Use thermostats,
rheostats and/or timers to control your heat source. Do not use hot rocks with snakes as they often heat unevenly over too
small of a surface area & can cause serious burns.
Humidity
Providing proper humidity for ball pythons is important, but as stated previously too much humidity can be as problematic as
too little. First off, let's establish "humidity" as the amount of moisture in the air. To provide your snake with a humidity level of
50% - 60%, you have a couple of options.
1. Use cypress mulch or a similar substrate that can be misted & is mold-resistant. Cypress is good for this as it turns a tan
color when dry & a rich brown when wet, giving a visual cue as to when it needs to be dampened again.
2. Make a "humidity box" for your snake. This consists of packing a plastic container with damp sphagnum moss (think
well-wrung-out wash cloth to gauge moisture), cutting a hole in the top or side & placing it in your python's enclosure so that it
can access the box as it pleases.
One of the biggest problems we observe in captive ball pythons is respiratory distress caused by the combination of low
ambient humidity, improper ambient temperatures, and a screen-top enclosure which basically allows the environment within
the snake's cage to be affected by any external influences in the room in which the snake is kept. Keep in mind that if you have
a screen top on the enclosure you will probably want to cover it most or all of the way with plastic, a towel or some other
means of keeping moisture from escaping. This is also where having proper, reliable ambient temperatures (back to that
thermometer!) is important, as warm air holds more moisture than cool air. You want the enclosure to be humid, not WET. A
soggy cage can eventually lead to bacterial & fungal infections and consequently, death.
Lighting
Supplemental lighting is not necessary for this species, but if used should run on a 12/12 cycle, meaning 12 hours on & 12
hours off. Continuous bright, overhead lighting is stressful to snakes, especially a nocturnal serpent such as this one.
Water
Always make fresh, clean water available to your ball python. The size of the water dish is up to you. If it is large enough for the
python to crawl into and soak, sooner or later your snake will make the most of the opportunity, and most seem to enjoy a nice
soak from time to time. Ensure that the bowl is not too deep for juvenile animals - 1" or so will suffice. Snakes of many species
will defecate in their water bowls from time to time, so be prepared for cleaning, disinfecting & a water change when
necessary. It is often beneficial to have a spare water bowl for such occasions, so that one may be used while the other is
being cleaned.
Accessories
The one cage accessory that is beneficial to a happy ball python is a good hide box...maybe even a couple of them. These are
secretive snakes that appreciate & utilize a hide spot. Provide one on each end of your python's enclosure so that it doesn't
have to choose between temperature & security. Clay flowerpots, plastic flowerpot trays, and commercially available hide
boxes all work quite well.
Feeding
Feed your ball python an appropriately sized rodent weekly. By "appropriately sized" we mean prey items that are no bigger
around than the python at its largest point. Ball pythons can eat rats from the time they are young - starting off with rat pups or
"crawlers" for younger snakes & moving up in size as the animal grows. Do not handle your snake for at least a day after
feeding, as this can lead to regurgitation. Ball pythons can be converted to feeding on frozen/thawed or pre-killed rodents (see
Snake Feeding caresheet). Never leave a live rodent unattended with ANY snake. Ball pythons are well-known for going on
hunger strikes at certain times throughout the year, particularly in the winter months. Be prepared for the possibility of your
snake going off feed, and keep an observant eye on the snake's overall condition and body weight. This is typically nothing to
worry about with healthy, well established pythons, although it can be extremely frustrating to the keeper. If your snake is
healthy continue your husbandry routine as usual, yet reduce the amount of handling the snake receives to a minimum. Offer
your ball python food every 10-14 days until interested in eating again, as the snake will eventually "turn back on" and resume
feeding normally.
Maintenance
Spot-clean your snake's enclosure as necessary. When feces/urates/uneaten prey items are present, remove them as soon
as possible. Clean & disinfect the water bowl on a weekly basis. Depending on cage conditions, remove all substrate & cage
furniture and completely disinfect using a 5% bleach solution approximately every 30 days. Rinse the enclosure thoroughly and
allow to dry before replacing cage furniture & your snake.
Basic Reproductive Info
Ball pythons reach sexual maturity anywhere from 18 months to 4 years of age. Breeding season in captivity typically ranges
from November to March. Stop all feeding at this time. Animals should be well established and in excellent condition before any
breeding is attempted. Breeding may be induced by reducing daytime photoperiod to 8 - 10 hours and dropping nighttime
temperatures into the mid 70's. Introduce the female into the male's cage. Misting the animals with water may induce breeding
activity. Females shed 14-20+ days after ovulation; eggs are usually laid within 30 days of post-ovulation shed. Clutch size for
balls typically ranges from 4 - 12 eggs. At an Incubation temperature of 88 - 90F (optimal), these eggs take an average of 60
days to hatch.
Notes/Comments
Ball pythons are often regarded as the most popular pet python in herpetoculture, and with their docile nature & low
maintenance requirements it is easy to see why. Acquiring captive bred specimens will help ensure a successful
snakekeeping experience. The myriad color morphs that are now available, combined with the fact that normal ball pythons
are quite attractive in their own right, truly make this species a snake for both novice and advanced herpetoculturist alike.
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